Shampoo compositions

ABSTRACT

Hair conditioning shampoo compositions are provided which contain a combination of conditioning agents including emulsified silicones, cationic polymers and certain fatty acid polyesters of polyols. Suitable fatty acid polyesters are sucrose pentalaurate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaerucate, sucrose tetraerucate, sucrose tetrastearate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose octaoleate, sucrose pentatallowate, sucrose trirapeate, sucrose tetrarapeate, sucrose pentarapeate, sucrose tristearate and sucrose pentastearate, and mixtures thereof. The compositions give improved hair conditioning benefits, especially to hair which has been damaged, e.g. through environmental exposure or harsh mechanical or chemical treatments such as heat styling, perming or bleaching.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

This invention relates to hair conditioning shampoo compositionscontaining a combination of conditioning agents including emulsifiedsilicones, cationic polymers and certain fatty acid polyesters ofpolyols.

BACKGROUND AND PRIOR ART

The use of conditioning agents in hair shampoo formulations is wellknown and widely documented. A variety of conditioning agents have beendescribed in this context, the principal classes of such agents beingsilicones, cationic polymers and oily materials such as hydrocarbons,higher alcohols, fatty acid esters, glycerides and fatty acids.

Fatty acid polyesters of cyclic polyols and/or sugar derivatives havebeen described as a component of hair conditioning formulations in thefollowing documents:

W098/04241 discloses that a conditioning system comprising a mixture ofpolyol carboxylic acid ester and particular nonionic water-solublepolymers is valuable in shampoo compositions for the delivery ofimproved hair feel and manageability. Cationic cellulose derivativepolymer materials may be included in the compositions as optionalingredients.

W096/37594 discloses a mild, foam producing personal cleansingcomposition with good skin feel attributes which is based on acombination of an oil dispersing nonionic surfactant and dispersed oilphase which is a mixture of a liquid polyol fatty acid polyester and thesecond oil component comprising one or more non-polar oils preferablyselected from mineral oil, petrolatum, water-insoluble silicones, soyabean oils and mixtures thereof. The use of this mixed oil system is saidto deliver improved skin feel.

W098/04240 describes a shampoo composition containing a particularsurfactant base of short chain alkyl sulphate and alkyl ethoxy sulphatein combination with a conditioning system comprising an insoluble oilconditioning agent selected from silicone materials, liquid polyolcarboxylic acid esters and mixtures thereof.

JP-A-10/077,215 describes a cosmetic material consisting of saccharidefatty acid ester and one or more siloxanes selected from methylpolysiloxane, methyl phenyl siloxane and methyl polycyclosiloxane. Thecomposition is said to provide good combing and feel after washing whenused as a hair rinse or treatment.

A problem encountered with conditioning shampoo formulations is that theconditioning performance may be insufficient for many people,particularly in regions such as Japan and South East Asia whereconsumers desire a high level of conditioning and a “weighty” feel totheir hair. Simply raising the level of conditioning agent in theformulation is not a satisfactory solution, since some conditioningagents tend to build up on the hair and be difficult to rinse off athigh levels, leading to an undesirably slimy or coated feel.

To enhance conditioning efficacy, various combinations of conditioningingredients in shampoo formulations have been proposed as follows:

Cationic polymers have been described for the enhancement of thedeposition of silicone from a cleansing shampoo base in EP 0 432 951 andEP 0 529 883.

WO 93/08787 describes a tri-component conditioning system for deliveryfrom shampoo composed of insoluble silicone, cationic polymer ofspecified charge density and an oily liquid for providing shine andlustre to the hair which is preferably selected from, inter alia,hydrocarbon oils such as paraffin oil and mineral oil, and alkyl/alkenylesters of fatty acids such as isopropyl isostearate and isocetylstearoyl stearate.

The present inventors have found that a specific combination ofconditioning agents: emulsified silicones, cationic polymers and fattyacid polyesters of cyclic polyols and/or sugar derivatives, givessurprisingly improved overall conditioning compared to the variousbinary combinations of those individual ingredients which are disclosedin the prior art.

Furthermore, hair softness is particularly improved.

The compositions of the invention also have particular utility in thetreatment of hair which has been damaged, e.g. through environmentalexposure or harsh mechanical or chemical treatments such as heatstyling, perming or bleaching. In such cases, the benefits of softnessand ease of combing provided by compositions of the present inventionare especially apparent.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention provides an aqueous shampoo compositioncomprising, in addition to water:

i) at least one cleansing surfactant chosen from anionic, zwitterionicand amphoteric surfactants or mixtures thereof, and

ii) a combination of conditioning agents including:

(a) emulsified particles of an insoluble silicone;

(b) a cationic polymer, and

(c) a fatty acid polyester of a polyol selected from cyclic polyols,sugar derivatives and mixtures thereof.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION AND PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

Cleansing Surfactant

Shampoo compositions according to the invention will comprise one ormore cleansing surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable andsuitable for topical application to the hair. Further surfactants may bepresent as an additional ingredient if sufficient for cleansing purposesis not provided as emulsifying agent for the oily or hydrophobiccomponents (such as silicones) present in the shampoo.

It is preferred that shampoo compositions of the invention comprise atleast one further surfactant (in addition to that used as emulsifyingagent) to provide a cleansing benefit.

Suitable cleansing surfactants, which may be used singularly or incombination, are selected from anionic, amphoteric and zwitterionicsurfactants, cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof. The cleansingsurfactant may be the same surfactant as the emulsifier, or may bedifferent. Preferred cleansing surfactants are selected from anionic,amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of anionic surfactants are the alkyl sulphates, alkyl ethersulphates, alkaryl sulphonates, alkanoyl isethionates, alkyl succinates,alkyl sulphosuccinates, N-alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkylether phosphates, alkyl ether carboxylates, and alpha-olefinsulphonates, especially their sodium, magnesium, ammonium and mono-, di-and triethanolamine salts. The alkyl and acyl groups generally containfrom 8 to 18 carbon atoms and may be unsaturated. The alkyl ethersulphates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylates maycontain from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units permolecule.

Typical anionic surfactants for use in shampoos of the invention includesodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulphosuccinate, ammonium laurylsulphate, sodium dodecylbenzene sulphonate, triethanolaminedodecylbenzene sulphonate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium laurylisethionate and sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate. The most preferred anionicsurfactants are sodium lauryl sulphate, triethanolamine monolaurylphosphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate 1 EO, 2EO and 3EO, ammoniumlauryl sulphate and ammonium lauryl ether sulphate 1EO, 2EO and 3EO.

Examples of amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants include alkyl amineoxides, alkyl betaines, alkyl amidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulphobetaines(sultaines), alkyl glycinates, alkyl carboxyglycinates, alkylamphopropionates, alkylamphoglycinates, alkyl amidopropylhydroxysultaines, acyl taurates and acyl glutamates, wherein the alkyland acyl groups have from 8 to 19 carbon atoms. Typical amphoteric andzwitterionic surfactants for use in shampoos of the invention includelauryl amine oxide, cocodimethyl sulphopropyl betaine and preferablylauryl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine and sodium cocamphopropionate.

The shampoo composition can also include co-surfactants, to help impartaesthetic, physical or cleansing properties to the composition. Apreferred example is a nonionic surfactant, which can be included in anamount ranging from 0% to about 5% by weight based on total weight.

For example, representative nonionic surfactants that can be included inshampoo compositions of the invention include condensation products ofaliphatic (C₈-C₁₈) primary or secondary linear or branched chainalcohols or phenols with alkylene oxides, usually ethylene oxide andgenerally having from 6 to 30 ethylene oxide groups.

Other representative nonionics include mono- or di-alkyl alkanolamides.Examples include coco mono- or di-ethanolamide and cocomono-isopropanolamide.

Further nonionic surfactants which can be included in shampoocompositions of the invention are the alkyl polyglycosides (APGs).Typically, the APG is one which comprises an alkyl group connected(optionally via a bridging group) to a block of one or more glycosylgroups. Preferred APGs are defined by the following formula:

RO-(G)_(n)

wherein R is a branched or straight chain alkyl group which may besaturated or unsaturated and G is a saccharide group.

R may represent a mean alkyl chain length of from about C₅ to about C₂₀.Preferably R represents a mean alkyl chain length of from about C₈ toabout C₁₂. Most preferably the value of R lies between about 9.5 andabout 10.5. G may be selected from C₅ or C₆ monosaccharide residues, andis preferably a glucoside. G may be selected from the group comprisingglucose, xylose, lactose, fructose, mannose and derivatives thereof.Preferably G is glucose.

The degree of polymerisation, n, may have a value of from about 1 toabout 10 or more. Preferably, the value of n lies in the range of fromabout 1.1 to about 2. Most preferably the value of n lies in the rangeof from about 1.3 to about 1.5.

Suitable alkyl polyglycosides for use in the invention are commerciallyavailable and include for example those materials identified as: OramixNS10 ex Seppic; Plantaren 1200 and Plantaren 2000 ex Henkel.

The total amount of surfactant (including any co-surfactant, and/or anyemulsifying agent) in shampoo compositions of the invention is generallyfrom 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 5 to 30%, more preferablyfrom 10% to 25% by weight of the total shampoo composition.

Emulsified Particles of Insoluble Silicone

The silicone is insoluble in the aqueous matrix of the shampoocomposition of the invention and so is present in an emulsified form,with the silicone present as dispersed particles.

Suitable silicones include polydiorganosiloxanes, in particularpolydimethylsiloxanes which have the CTFA designation dimethicone.

Also suitable for use in compositions of the invention are hydroxylfunctional silicones, in particular polydimethyl siloxanes havinghydroxyl end groups which have the CTFA designation dimethiconol.

Also suitable for use in compositions of the invention are silicone gumshaving a slight degree of cross-linking, as are described for example inWO 96/31188. These materials can impart body, volume and stylability tohair, as well as good wet and dry conditioning.

A further preferred class of silicones for inclusion in shampoos of theinvention are amino functional silicones. By “amino functional silicone”is meant a silicone containing at least one primary, secondary ortertiary amine group, or a quaternary ammonium group.

Examples of suitable amino functional silicones include:

(i) polysiloxanes having the CTFA designation “amodimethicone”, and thegeneral formula:

HO—[Si(CH₃)₂—O—]_(x)—[Si(OH)(CH₂CH₂CH₂—NH—CH₂CH₂NH₂)—O—]_(y)—H

in which x and y are numbers depending on the molecular weight of thepolymer, generally such that the molecular weight is between about 5,000and 500,000.

(ii) polysiloxanes having the general formula:

R′_(a)G_(3−a)—Si(OSiG₂)_(n)—(OSiG_(b)R′_(2−b))_(m)—O—SiG_(3−a)—R′_(a)

in which:

G is selected from H, phenyl, OH or C₁₋₈ alkyl,. e.g. methyl;

a is 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, preferably 0;

b is 0 or 1, preferably 1;

m and n are numbers such that (m+n) can range from 1 to 2000, preferablyfrom 50 to 150;

m is a number from 1 to 2000, preferably from 1 to 10;

n is a number from 0 to 1999, preferably from 49 to 149, and

R′ is a monovalent radical of formula —C_(q)H_(2q)L in which q is anumber from 2 to 8 and L is an aminofunctional group selected from thefollowing:

—NR″—CH₂—CH₂—N(R″)₂

—N(R″)₂

—N⁺(R″)₃A⁻

—N⁺H(R″)₂A⁻

—N⁺H₂(R″)A⁻

—N(R″)—CH₂—CH₂—N⁺H₂(R″)A⁻

in which R″ is selected from H, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturatedmonovalent hydrocarbon radical, e.g. C₁₋₂₀ alkyl, and;

A is a halide ion, e.g. chloride or bromide.

Suitable amino functional silicones corresponding to the above formulainclude those polysiloxanes termed “trimethylsilylamodimethicone” asdepicted below, and which are sufficiently water insoluble so as to beuseful in compositions of the invention:

Si(CH₃)₃—O—[Si(CH₃)₂—O—]_(x)—[Si(CH₃)(R—NH—CH₂CH₂NH₂)—O—]_(y)—Si(CH₃)₃

wherein x+y is a number from about 50 to about 500, and wherein R is analkylene group having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms. Preferably, the numberx+y is in the range of from about 100 to about 300.

(iii) quaternary silicone polymers having the general formula:

{(R¹)(R²)(R³)N⁺CH₂CH(OH)CH₂O(CH₂)₃[Si(R⁴)(R⁵)—O—]_(n)—Si(R⁶)(R⁷)—(CH₂)₃—O—CH₂CH(OH)CH₂N^(+(R)⁸)(R⁹)(R¹⁰)}(X⁻)₂

wherein R¹ and R¹⁰ may be the same or different and may be independentlyselected from H, saturated or unsaturated long or short chain alk(en)yl,branched chain alk(en)yl and C₅-C₈ cyclic ring systems;

R² thru' R⁹ may be the same or different and may be independentlyselected from H, straight or branched chain lower alk(en)yl, and C₅-C₈cyclic ring systems;

n is a number within the range of about 60 to about 120, preferablyabout 80, and

X⁻is preferably acetate, but may instead be for example halide, organiccarboxylate, organic sulphonate or the like.

Suitable quaternary silicone polymers of this class are described inEP-A-0 530 974.

Amino functional silicones suitable for use in shampoos of the inventionwill typically have a mole % amine functionality in the range of fromabout 0.1 to about 8.0 mole %, preferably from about 0.1 to about 5.0mole %, most preferably from about 0.1 to about 2.0 mole %. In generalthe amine concentration should not exceed about 8.0 mole % since we havefound that too high an amine concentration can be detrimental to totalsilicone deposition and therefore conditioning performance.

Specific examples of amino functional silicones suitable for use in theinvention are the aminosilicone oils DC2-8220, DC2-8166, DC2-8466, andDC2-8950-114 (all ex Dow Corning), and GE 1149-75, (ex General ElectricSilicones).

An example of a quaternary silicone polymer useful in the presentinvention is the material K3474, ex Goldschmidt.

In general, the conditioning performance of the emulsified silicone inthe shampoo composition of the invention tends to increase withincreased viscosity of the silicone itself (not the emulsion or thefinal shampoo composition).

For dimethicone and dimethiconol-type silicones, the viscosity of thesilicone itself is typically at least 10,000 cst, preferably at least60,000 cst, most preferably at least 500,000 cst, ideally at least1,000,000 cst. Preferably the viscosity does not exceed 10⁹cst for easeof formulation. For amino functional-type silicones, the viscosity ofthe silicone itself is not particularly critical and can suitably rangefrom about 100 to about 500,000 cst.

Emulsified silicones for use in hair shampoos of the invention willtypically have an average silicone particle size in the composition ofless than 30, preferably less than 20, more preferably less than 10microns. In general, reducing the silicone particle size tends toimprove conditioning performance. Most preferably the average siliconeparticle size of the emulsified silicone in the composition is less than2 microns, ideally it ranges from 0.01 to 1 micron. Silicone emulsionshaving an average silicone particle size of <0.15 microns are generallytermed microemulsions.

Particle size may be measured by means of a laser light scatteringtechnique, using a 2600D Particle Sizer from Malvern Instruments.

Suitable silicone emulsions for use in the invention are alsocommercially available in a pre-emulsified form.

Examples of suitable pre-formed emulsions include emulsions DC2-1766,DC2-1784, and microemulsions DC2-1865 and DC2-1870, all available fromDow Corning. These are all emulsions/microemulsions of dimethiconol.Cross-linked silicone gums are also available in a pre-emulsified form,which is advantageous for ease of formulation. A preferred example isthe material available from Dow Corning as DC X2-1787, which is anemulsion of cross-linked dimethiconol gum. A further preferred exampleis the material available from Dow Corning as DC X2-1391, which is amicroemulsion of cross-linked dimethiconol gum.

Pre-formed emulsions of amino functional silicone are also availablefrom suppliers of silicone oils such as Dow Corning and GeneralElectric. Particularly suitable are emulsions of amino functionalsilicone oils with non ionic and/or cationic surfactant. Specificexamples include DC929 Cationic Emulsion, DC939 Cationic Emulsion, DC949Cationic emulsion, and the non-ionic emulsions DC2-7224, DC2-8467,DC2-8177 and DC2-8154 (all ex Dow Corning).

Mixtures of any of the above types of silicone may also be used.Particularly preferred are hydroxyl functional silicones, aminofunctional silicones and mixtures thereof.

The total amount of silicone incorporated into compositions of theinvention depends on the level of conditioning desired and the materialused. A preferred amount is from 0.01 to about 10% by weight of thetotal composition although these limits are not absolute. The lowerlimit is determined by the minimum level to achieve conditioning and theupper limit by the maximum level to avoid making the hair and/or skinunacceptably greasy.

When the silicone is incorporated as a pre-formed emulsion as describedabove, the exact quantity of emulsion will of course depend on theconcentration of the emulsion, and should be selected to give thedesired quantity of silicone in the final composition.

Cationic Polymer

A cationic polymer is an essential ingredient in shampoo compositions ofthe invention, for enhancing conditioning performance of the shampoo.

The cationic polymer may be a homopolymer or be formed from two or moretypes of monomers. The molecular weight of the polymer will generally bebetween 5 000 and 10 000 000, typically at least 10 000 and preferablyin the range 100 000 to about 2 000 000. The polymer will have cationicnitrogen containing groups such as quaternary ammonium or protonatedamino groups, or a mixture thereof.

The cationic nitrogen-containing group will generally be present as asubstituent on a fraction of the total monomer units of the cationicpolymer. Thus when the polymer is not a homopolymer it can containspacer non-cationic monomer units. Such polymers are described in theCTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Directory, 3rd edition. The ratio of thecationic to non-cationic monomer units is selected to give a polymerhaving a cationic charge density in the required range.

Suitable cationic polymers include, for example, copolymers of vinylmonomers having cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functionalitieswith water soluble spacer monomers such as (meth)acrylamide, alkyl anddialkyl (meth)acrylamides, alkyl (meth)acrylate, vinyl caprolactone andvinyl pyrrolidine. The alkyl and dialkyl substituted monomers preferablyhave C1-C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1-C3 alkyl groups. Othersuitable spacers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol, maleic anhydride,propylene glycol and ethylene glycol.

The cationic amines can be primary, secondary or tertiary amines,depending upon the particular species and the pH of the composition. Ingeneral secondary and tertiary amines, especially tertiary, arepreferred.

Amine substituted vinyl monomers and amines can be polymerized in theamine form and then converted to ammonium by quaternization.

The cationic polymers can comprise mixtures of monomer units derivedfrom amine- and/or quaternary ammonium-substituted monomer and/orcompatible spacer monomers.

Suitable cationic polymers include, for example:

copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and 1-vinyl-3-methyl-imidazoliumsalt (e.g. chloride salt), referred to in the industry by the Cosmetic,Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, (CTFA) as Polyquaternium-16. Thismaterial is commercially available from BASF Wyandotte Corp.(Parsippany, N.J., USA) under the LUVIQUAT tradename (e.g. LUVIQUAT FC370);

copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate,referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium-11. This materialis available commercially from Gaf Corporation (Wayne, N.J., USA) underthe GAFQUAT tradename (e.g., GAFQUAT 755N);

cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymers including, forexample, dimethyldiallyammonium chloride homopolymer and copolymers ofacrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, referred to in theindustry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 6 and Polyquaternium 7, respectively;

mineral acid salts of amino-alkyl esters of homo-and co-polymers ofunsaturated carboxylic acids having from 3 to 5 carbon atoms, (asdescribed in U.S. Pat. No. 4,009,256);

cationic polyacrylamides(as described in W095/22311).

Other cationic polymers that can be used include cationic polysaccharidepolymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic starchderivatives, and cationic guar gum derivatives.

Cationic polysaccharide polymers suitable for use in compositions of theinvention include those of the formula:

A—O—[R—N⁺(R¹)(R²)(R³) X^(−])

wherein: A is an anhydroglucose residual group, such as a starch orcellulose anhydroglucose residual. R is an alkylene, oxyalkylene,polyoxyalkylene, or hydroxyalkylene group, or combination thereof. R¹,R² and R³ independently represent alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl,alkoxyalkyl, or alkoxyaryl groups, each group containing up to about 18carbon atoms. The total number of carbon atoms for each cationic moiety(i.e., the sum of carbon atoms in R¹, R² and R³) is preferably about 20or less, and X is an anionic counterion.

Cationic cellulose is available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, N.J., USA)in their Polymer JR (trade mark) and LR (trade mark) series of polymers,as salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethyl ammoniumsubstituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) asPolyquaternium 10. Another type of cationic cellulose includes thepolymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reactedwith lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide, referred to in theindustry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24. These materials are available fromAmerchol Corp. (Edison, N.J., USA) under the tradename Polymer LM-200.

Other suitable cationic polysaccharide polymers include quaternarynitrogen-containing cellulose ethers (e.g. as described in U.S. Pat. No.3,962,418), and copolymers of etherified cellulose and starch (e.g. asdescribed in U.S. Pat. No. 3,958,581).

A particularly suitable type of cationic polysaccharide polymer that canbe used is a cationic guar gum derivative, such as guarhydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (Commercially available fromRhone-Poulenc in their JAGUAR trademark series).

Examples are JAGUAR C13S, which has a low degree of substitution of thecationic groups and high viscosity. JAGUAR C15, having a moderate degreeof substitution and a low viscosity, JAGUAR C17, having a high degree ofsubstitution and a high viscosity, JAGUAR C16, which is ahydroxypropylated cationic guar derivative containing a low level ofsubstituent groups as well as cationic quaternary ammonium groups, andJAGUAR 162 which is a high transparency, medium viscosity guar having alow degree of substitution.

Preferably the cationic polymer is selected from cationic cellulose andcationic guar gum derivatives.

Fatty Acid Polyester

A further essential component in shampoo compositions of the inventionis a fatty acid polyester of a polyol selected from cyclic polyols,sugar derivatives and mixtures thereof.

By “polyol” is meant a material having at least four hydroxyl groups.The polyols used to prepare the fatty acid polyester will preferablyhave from 4 to 12, more preferably from 4 to 11, most preferably from 4to 8 hydroxyl groups.

By “fatty acid polyester” is meant a material in which at least two ofthe ester groups are independently of one another attached to a fatty(C₈ to C₂₂ alkyl or alkenyl) chain. For a given material, prefixes suchas “tetra-”, “penta-” indicate the average degrees of esterification.The compounds exist as a mixture of materials ranging from the monoesterto the fully esterified ester.

Cyclic polyols are the preferred polyols used to prepare the fatty acidpolyester in the present invention. Examples include inositol, and allforms of saccharides. Saccharides, in particular monosaccharides anddisaccharides, are especially preferred.

Examples of monosaccharides include xylose, arabinose, galactose,fructose, sorbose and glucose. Glucose is especially preferred.

Examples of disaccharides include maltose, lactose, cellobiose andsucrose. Sucrose is especially preferred.

Examples of suitable sugar derivatives include sugar alcohols, such asxylitol, erythritol, maltitol and sorbitol, and sugar ethers such assorbitan.

The fatty acids used to prepare the fatty acid polyester in the presentinvention have from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. They can be branched orlinear, and saturated or unsaturated.

Examples of suitable fatty acids include caprylic, capric, lauric,myristic, myristoleic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic,12-hydroxystearic, oleic, ricinoleic, linoleic, linolenic, arachidic,arachidonic, behenic, and erucic acids. Erucic acid is particularlypreferred.

Mixed fatty acid moieties from source oils which contain substantialamounts of the desired unsaturated or saturated acids can be used as theacid moieties to prepare fatty acid polyesters suitable for use in thehair treatment composition of the invention. The mixed fatty acids fromthe oils should contain at least 30%, preferably at least 50% of thedesired unsaturated acids. For example, high erucic rapeseed oil fattyacids can be used instead of pure C20-C22 unsaturated acids, andhardened, i.e. hydrogenated, high erucic rapeseed oil fatty acids can beused instead of pure C20-C22 saturated acids. Preferably the C20 andhigher acids, or their derivatives, e.g. methyl or other lower alkylesters, are concentrated, for example by distillation. The fatty acidsfrom palm kernel oil or coconut oil can be used as a source of C8 to C12acids, and those from cotton seed oil and soya bean oil as a source ofC16 to C18 acids.

Specific examples of suitable fatty acid polyesters are sucrosepentalaurate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaerucate, sucrosetetraerucate, sucrose tetrastearate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucroseoctaoleate, sucrose pentatallowate, sucrose trirapeate, sucrosetetrarapeate, sucrose pentarapeate, sucrose tristearate and sucrosepentastearate, and mixtures thereof. Sucrose pentaerucate and sucrosetetraerucate are particularly preferred. These materials are availablecommercially as Ryoto Sugar Esters ex Mitsubishi Kasei Foods.

It is also advantageous if the ester groups of the fatty acid polyesterare independently of one another attached to a fatty (C₈ to C₂₂ alkyl oralkenyl) chain or a short chain alkyl (C₂ to C₈) chain and in which thenumber ratio of C₈ to C₂₂ groups to C₂ to C₈ groups in the fatty acidpolyester molecule ranges from 5:3 to 3:5, preferably from 2:1 to 1:2,more preferably about 1:1. The polyol used to prepare such a material ispreferably a saccharide, most preferably glucose, with at least five ofthe hydroxyl groups being. These products are in the main oils and arethus easy to formulate. Specific examples are glucose penta esters whereabout 50% by number of the ester groups are acetyl groups and about 50%by number of the ester groups are octanoyl, decanoyl or dodecanoylgroups respectively. The synthesis of this type of material is describedin W098/16538.

The fatty acid polyester can be prepared by a variety of methods wellknown to those skilled in the art. These methods include acylation ofthe cyclic polyol or reduced saccharide with an acid chloride;trans-esterification of the cyclic polyol or reduced saccharide fattyacid esters using a variety of catalysts; acylation of the cyclic polyolor reduced saccharide with an acid anhydride and acylation of the cyclicpolyol or reduced saccharide with a fatty acid. Typical preparations ofthese materials are disclosed in US 4 386 213 and AU 14416/88.

The total amount of fatty acid polyester in hair treatment compositionsof the invention is generally from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferablyfrom 0.01 to 5%, more preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight of the totalhair treatment composition.

Optional Ingredients

Compositions of this invention may contain any other ingredient normallyused in hair treatment formulations. These other ingredients may includeviscosity modifiers, preservatives, colouring agents, polyols such asglycerine and polypropylene glycol, chelating agents such as EDTA,antioxidants such as vitamin E acetate, fragrances, antimicrobials andsunscreens. Each of these ingredients will be present in an amounteffective to accomplish its purpose. Generally these optionalingredients are included individually at a level of up to about 5% byweight of the total composition.

Preferably, compositions of this invention also contain adjuvantssuitable for hair care. Generally such ingredients are includedindividually at a level of up to 2%, preferably up to 1%, by weight ofthe total composition.

Among suitable hair care adjuvants, are:

(i) natural hair root nutrients, such as amino acids and sugars.Examples of suitable amino acids include arginine, cysteine, glutamine,glutamic acid, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, serine and valine,and/or precursors and derivatives thereof. The amino acids may be addedsingly, in mixtures, or in the form of peptides, e.g. di- andtripeptides. The amino acids may also be added in the form of a proteinhydrolysate, such as a keratin or collagen hydrolysate. Suitable sugarsare glucose, dextrose and fructose. These may be added singly or in theform of, e.g. fruit extracts.

(ii) hair fibre benefit agents. Examples are:

ceramides, for moisturising the fibre and maintaining cuticle integrity.Ceramides are available by extraction from natural sources, or assynthetic ceramides and pseudoceramides. A preferred ceramide isCeramide II, ex Quest. Mixtures of ceramides may also be suitable, suchas Ceramides LS, ex Laboratoires Serobiologiques.

free fatty acids, for cuticle repair and damage prevention. Examples arebranched chain fatty acids such as 18-methyleicosanoic acid and otherhomologues of this series, straight chain fatty acids such as stearic,myristic and palmitic acids, and unsaturated fatty acids such as oleicacid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid. A preferredfatty acid is oleic acid. The fatty acids may be added singly, asmixtures, or in the form of blends derived from extracts of, e.g.lanolin.

Mixtures of any of the above active ingredients may also be used.

The invention is further illustrated by way of the followingnon-limitative Examples, in which all percentages quoted are by weightbased on total weight unless otherwise stated.

EXAMPLES Example 1

Salon Evaluation

The following shampoo formulations were prepared:

Example 1 Comparative Ingredient (wt %) Ex. A (wt %) Sodium lauryl ether14.0 14.0 sulphate 2EO (SLES) Cocamidopropyl betaine 2.0 2.0 (CAPB)JAGUAR ® C13S 0.2 0.2 CARBOPOL ® ETD 2020 0.4 0.4 Silicone emulsion⁽¹⁾1.5 1.5 EUPERLAN ® PK30000⁽²⁾ 6.0 6.0 Sucrose tetraerucate 0.025 —Preservative, q.s q.s. colour, fragrance Water, minors to 100% to 100%⁽¹⁾Added as DC2-1766 (emulsion of dimethiconol in anionic surfactant,60% active, ex Dow Corning) ⁽²⁾Glycol stearate pearlizer, (ex Henkel)⁽³⁾Added as Ryoto Sugar Ester ER290 (ex Mitsubishi Kasei Foods)

Methodology: Salon test using ½ head test and 36 panellists

Results: Significant wins on hair softness were judged by thehairdresser and panellist (10% and 5% win respectively) for Example 1compared with Comparative Example A.

Example 2 Switch Testing

A pair of shampoo formulations were made up having the followingformulations:

Comparative Example 2 Example B (wt %) (wt %) SLES 14 14 CAPB 2 2JAGUAR ® C13S 0.1 0.1 CARBOPOL ® ETD 2020 0.4 0.4 Sucrosetetraerucate⁽³⁾ 1 0 Glycerol 2 2 Silicone emulsion⁽¹⁾ 1 2 Water, minorsq.s. q.s.

The formulations of Example 2 and Comparative Example B were submittedto a paired test over a range of conditioning attributes. Panellistsvoted for their preferred formulation from the pair for eachconditioning attribute and the results are shown in the following Table:

Paired test % of votes Smooth wet 54% 46% Ease of comb wet 57% 43%Smooth dry 56% 44% Ease of comb dry 51% 49% Flyaway 51% 49%

It is apparent that the formulation of Example 2 was preferred by thepanellists to the Comparative Example over all attributes tested.

Example 3 Switch Testing

A further pair of shampoo formulations were made up having the followingformulations:

Comparative Example 3 Example C (wt %) (wt %) SLES 14 14 CAPB 2 2JAGUAR ® C13S 0.1 0.1 CARBOPOL ® ETD 2020 0.4 0.4 Sucrosetetraerucate⁽³⁾ 1 2 Glycerol 2 2 Silicone emulsion⁽¹⁾ 1 0 Water, minorsq.s. q.s.

The formulations of Example 3 and Comparative Example C were submittedto a paired test as in the previous Example. The results are shown inthe following Table:

Paired test % of votes Smooth wet 78% 22% Ease of comb wet 89% 11%Smooth dry 68% 32% Ease of comb dry 75% 25% Flyaway 56% 44%

It is apparent that the formulation of Example 3 was preferred by thepanellists to the Comparative Example over all attributes tested.

What is claimed is:
 1. An aqueous shampoo composition comprising: (1) atleast one cleansing surfactant selected from the group consisting ofanionic surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactantsand mixtures thereof; (2) a combination of conditioning agentscomprising: (a) an insoluble silicone selected from the group consistingof hydroxyl functional silicones, amino functional silicones, andmixtures thereof; (b) a cationic polymer selected from the groupconsisting of cationic cellulose and cationic guar gum derivatives; (c)a fatty acid polyester selected from the group consisting of sucrosepentaerucate, sucrose tetraerucate, and mixtures thereof.